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Minolta X-700 Capacitor Replacement

Minolta X-700 Capacitor Replacement

A step by step guide to Minolta X-700 capacitor replacement in the popular 35mm SLR Camera.

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The Minolta X-700 is one of the most popular cameras for modern film fans being equally at home in the hands of both the expert and novice photographer.

It can though suffer the dreaded capacitor-itis where its shutter release and aperture control capacitors can fail. If your camera has a serial number lower than 2000000 then it almost certainly has tantalum capacitors (STEC) and these are unlikely to be the cause of problems. Serial numbers higher than 2000000 usually have electrolytic capacitors (ALEC) and these are very often the culprits when problems arise.

Minolta X-700 Capacitors - Tantalum Bead Type
Minolta X-700 Capacitor (tantalum bead type) – these seldom fail and will almost never need replacing.
Minolta X-700 Capacitors - Electrolytic Type
Minolta X-700 capacitor (Electrolytic type). These are prone to failure.

Serial numbers alone are not the best test. We have seen an X-700 in the 2040000 range with tantalum capacitors. The surest way to know for sure if your camera has the early tantalum bead type or the later electrolytic type is to remove the base plate and have a look. The pictures above show the two types of Minolta X-700 capacitor in use.

The classic symptom of Minolta X-700 capacitor failure is when you half press the shutter release the LEDs in the viewfinder will illuminate, on full press the LEDs will go out but the shutter will not activate. The winder/film advance will be locked solid because the shutter is wound on but the camera is unable to release the shutter.

Sometimes after a power down and power back up again the problem will clear but it will return after a few shots.
While this symptom is almost always related to capacitors it is not ALWAYS the case. Other faults can create these symptoms like shutter derails, jammed curtains, faulty release magnet and power issues to name a few. However if the symptoms arise it is usually best to consider capacitor replacement as the first step IF the camera has the electrolytic type capacitors and if you have made sure its not as simple as a corroded battery chamber or flat battery.

The X-700 is cursed with two capacitors which can be problematic – both are are 220uF 4V types. The good news is that modern ALEC capacitors are very long lasting and relatively inexpensive. You will need the smallest physical size you can get to ensure a good fit. Normally we fit using a Panasonic made capacitor with dimensions of 7.15mm long by 6.38mm wide.

This guide will hopefully get you through a Minolta X-700 capacitor replacement but do not over-estimate your soldering skills. The circuit boards in these cameras are VERY fragile and we have seen a fair few written off due to shoddy soldering work.

You will need the following tools and parts to replace a Minolta X-700 Capacitor

You will also need a great deal of patience coupled with a steady hand. I always use leaded solder with an internal flux core which works best. Lead free solder can be tricky to use and usually requires flux to make it work well.

NOTES: This Minolta X-700 capacitor replacement guide can be used to replace the single capacitor in the base of X-500 and X-300 variants as well. Be aware though that the capacitors orientation is different. You need to check carefully which side the capacitor has its white (-) stripe prior to removal and make sure replacement is identical.
Note also that for this guide I am using a junk camera. Your soldering should be neater but its tough to photograph a process while working at your best single handed.


Read the Minolta x-700 capacitor replacement guide from start to finish before jumping in. As ever any repair is down to your tools and skills. Take you time, don’t rush. There are no prizes being offered for fastest repair times.

Minolta X-700 Capacitor Replacement – The Shutter Release Capacitor

Removing the X-700 base plate

First step is to remove the base plate. It’s also sensible to remove the battery cap and batteries while work is being carried out.

Note that the two centre screws are much shorter than the two screws at the outer edges.

With the base removed observe the capacitor. If it looks like this is an ALEC type. Note the orientation of the white/grey stripe along one side. This is the negative (-) side of the capacitor and must be orientated correctly when replacing.

On an X-700 the stripe faces inwards and is nearest the circuit board. On an X-300 the stripe faces outwards towards the edge of the camera. You should make a note prior to removal.

The circuit board in all versions of the X-700, X-500 and X-300 is very fragile. You need to minimise heat as the tracks and the board will simply burn away if too much heat is used.

The easiest way to remove the old capacitor is to clip it away from its leads with some snips.

If you are nervous about applying heat to he circuit board you can now use the remains of the legs to solder the replacement onto…

…Or simply desolder these. A light touch is needed.

A replacement 220uf 4V Panasonic ALEC is now installed. You need to tin the leads on the capacitor and clip the legs to the right length. Some snipe nosed pliers are used to form the legs to the right distance apart.

If you are working on an X-300 or X-500 this completes the repair. Simply replace the base plate and test the camera.

Sometimes after capacitor replacement you may find your X-700 still refuses to fire. This can be because the upper aperture control capacitor is also defective but normally I make a small modification to the camera here as sometimes even with perfectly working capacitors the X-700 can fail to release the shutter.
Note the yellow wire here and desolder this from the board.

Note the other yellow wire leading onto the board here and desolder this from the board as well.

Solder the two yellow wires together like so and wrap a strip of insulation tape around them to prevent contact with the board.

CREDIT: to James Holman of Learn Camera Repair for this tip. It really does work and saves a lot of grief.

NOTE: It’s not a great pic – the two wires are not on the board they are simply soldered together end to end.

Minolta X-700 Capacitor Replacement – The Aperture Control Capacitor

To get to the top capacitor which manages aperture control we need to remove the top cover. Only an X-700 has this capacitor the X-300 and X-500 do not support program mode so do not have an aperture control circuit.

Start by using a JIS screwdriver to remove the screw on top of the rewind capstan.

With the screw removed I usually put a strip of tape around the top of the film spool spindle. This will reduce the risk of it getting pushed into the camera and causing problems.

Set the ASA ring to a known value and make a note and set exposure compensation at Zero (0) this will make life a bit easier later.

Use either a spanning wrench or a rubber bung to remove the slotted retaining ring underneath. On some X-700s this will be plastic but some have a metal retainer here. This is not generally very tight and a suitable rubber bung will usually remove this, it’s a conventional thread.

Underneath you will find a washer, remove this.

The film speed ISO ring and exposure compensation ring will now simply pull away.

Under the film speed control you will find a thin plastic washer. Note it’s positioning with reference to the slots.

Remove the washer and handle carefully. It is very easy to get this bent or damaged.

You can now see the levers under the film speed and exposure compensation ring. Make a rough note of where these are located. It will make assembly easier later.

Remove the threaded cap/trim on top of the film advance lever. This is usually not fitted too tight so a rubber bung will usually remove it. It’s a conventional thread.


Here you can see one of my best tools for camera repair in use. Its a wine stopper for a wine fermentation bottle and this tool will remove an awful lot of stuff very easily.

If the threaded cap doesn’t come loose you can either apply a small amount of Isoprop and try after 15 minutes or resort to a spanning wrench.


You do need caution here as the trim can easily be damaged. Normally I would apply some masking tape over the cap to reduce any risk of damage to the trim.

With the threaded cap removed you can see that the advance lever is hooked onto a spring. Some X series do not have the spring and rely instead on a sprung washer. If it’s a sprung washer type the washer will be directly under the film advance. If it has the coil spring gently left the film advance lever up and unhook the spring.
The spring is easily wrecked so do not pull the film advance lever about too much until the spring is unhooked.

With the spring released the film advance lever will simply pull free.

Be careful as the spring underneath has a tendency to fly off into the void.

The spring has two hooked ends. One to the film advance lever and one to a slot cut out in the base of the top cover.

Gently ease the spring free and store it safely.

Use a spanning wrench remove the slotted nut.

Here’s the nut coming free. Note its orientation.

Set the shutter speed dial to Program. This will make life simpler during reassembly and will also allow a test of the camera without complete reassembly later.

Using a spanning wrench remove the silver trim ring around the shutter release. Caution as the finish is easily damaged.
This ring is usually not very tight.

Another camera tool dear to my heart. A cocktail stick. Once items are loose a cocktail stick can be relied on to turn items to remove them and being a soft wood will not mar the finish.

The trim ring is removed. Be careful here when this comes away the shutter button is spring loaded and can easily fly away.

With the trim gone the shutter button and its associated spring will simply pull free.

The shutter speed dial can now be lifted off.

Remove the two screws under the Minolta logo and remove the name plate.

Now you can see the Judas Window arrangement which displays the lens aperture into the viewfinder. Its best not to mess with this as getting the mirror and lens aligned can be a painful experience but if you are missing an aperture mirror (very common on X series) this is where it would be mounted.

All of the screws on the cover are different lengths so best to store them separately or make notes.

Remove the screw on the left shoulder of the camera.

Remove the screws either side of the viewfinder.

Now carefully lift off the top cover.

As the top cover comes free watch out for the small button which releases the shutter speed dial from Program mode and the viewfinder surround. These are loose once the cover is away.

Don’t put any strain on the cover as there are wires attaching the electronics to the hot shoe of the camera and they are relatively fragile. I don’t usually desolder these for a simple capacitor replacement.

Bear in mind you have exposed ICs here so take sensible anti-static precautions.

Note the position of the two plastic rings which are under the film speed dial. Remove these and be careful. The inner one contains very fine brushes which act on the copper tracks beneath.
Note that these are sprung and held in place by the film speed dial when assembled. If you want to test the camera prior to assembly you will need to replace these parts and apply a slight pressure on them.

Remove the JIS screw which retains the top circuit board.

Remove the small JIS screw which retains the flex board and and be sure not to lose the small plastic washer underneath this.

Note the film speed contactor plate and pay attention to the small black wire that runs along its back edge. This is very fragile and during repairs can shear off if not handled very carefully. It can be re-soldered but you don’t’t want to make more work and take more risks.

Very carefully ease up the film speed contactor plate. It doesn’t have to go far it just needs to be out of the way.

You need to desolder these wires at the front of the circuit board. There is a small sticky tape that holds these in place. Carefully peel the tape back and desolder these.

This is why the contactor plate was lifted in the previous step – its plastic and its very easy for it to get clipped with the soldering iron.

Heres the wires again as a reference.

It is worth making your own notes though as I have seen some Minoltas where the wiring colours were different.

Carefully desolder the wires from the front edge of the circuit board.

Now you can very gently lift the circuit board. It may stick a bit close to the prism. Do not apply force but a gentle jiggle will free it.
Close to the prism the circuit board has LEDs which fit into a plastic mounting which relays the LEDs to the viewfinder. Its like a small multi connector plug and can sometimes need a small amount of jiggling to free it.
Now we can see the aperture control capacitor. Note the orientation of its grey/white stripe indicating its (-) leg.

Carefully pull the circuit board back but do not apply pressure or lever it around. The PCB to flexboard tracks and joins are very fragile.
To get a picture I am using a rubber bung to hold the circuit board open a bit to give you a view of the aperture control capacitor. I also use this to keep the board opened while desoldering the capacitor and fitting the replacement. As with the other capacitor it is easiest to clip its leads to remove it and then desolder the remaining part of the leads.

Here’s a replacement ready to go. Its legs have already been formed into the right shape and the leads have been tinned. You can also see its coloured stripe indicating its (-) negative leg.

Placement of this Minolta X-700 capacitor is quite critical as it can easily foul on other parts so you need the utmost care in getting its placement perfect.

With the new capacitor in place you now need to solder the leads at the front edge of the board.
Note the silver coloured clip around the the film spool housing and make sure this pushed home otherwise it will not allow the contactor plate to be replaced easily.
Note also how close the capacitor is to the camera edge and internal mouldings. This is why placement is quite critical

With the leads re-soldered push the contactor plate back into position. Note it is keyed so will only fit in one position.

Make sure the circuit board is seated correctly with its LED plug block near the prism reseated.
Replace the JIS circuit board retainer screw.

Replace the film speed/exposure compensation rings and check that the black wire seen here at the back of the contactor plate is still connected.

Now replace the flex board retainer with its plastic washer.
If you wish to run a test now before replacing the top cover; replace the batteries, fit a lens and set it to f16, put the advance ever loosely on just so you can wind the camera on and put the shutter button into the camera, apply slight pressure to the film speed/exposure compensation rings to put them in contact with the contactor plate and press the shutter button. If all is well the camera will trip the shutter.

Replace the shutter speed lock button into its position…

…and use a bit of low tack tape on its top to hold it in place while you replace the cover.

Replace the viewfinder surround and gently ease the top cover back onto the camera. Make sure you don’t pinch any leads while replacing the cover.

Refit the screw on the left shoulder of the camera.

Refit the screws either side of the viewfinder.

Replace the plastic washer under the film speed ring.

Refit the film speed/exposure compensation ring. Note the cut outs in the ring and align these with the two plastic levers which you can push into their original position from your notes earlier.

It’s easiest to replace the ring and ‘feel’ for when the levers are located. If it doesn’t feel right then it probably isn’t. Do not force things.

You should be able to feel the film speed ring is right without putting any of the retaining fittings on.

By gently pressing its down and pressing the exposure compensation button you should feel it click into place correctly.

If all seems well fit the sprung silver washer (missing in this photograph) and the replace the slotted retaining ring.

Loosely tighten down and check that the ASA dial can move from lowest to highest ASA. Set it at around ASA 400 and check the exposure compensation can also move between -2 and +2

Do NOT over tighten the ASA retaining ring – you will run the risk of cracking the film spool guide plus if its over-tight and it will make the exposure compensation ring very tight to turn.

I normally use a rubber bung, tighten down gently until it impacts the sprung washer and then apply 1/8th to 1/4 turn. The sprung washer acts to stop it coming loose so it doesn’t need to be very tight.

Replace the slotted nut under the film advance lever.

Note the slot where one end of the film advance spring hooks on.

Hook one end of the spring into the slot.

Hook the other end of the spring onto the advance lever….

…you need to tension the spring so with the spring hooked on you need to rotate the entire film advance lever round in an imaginary circle ABOVE the spindle and then fit it onto the spindle while making sure the spring does not get trapped or run under the advance lever. This is tricky and its easiest if you don’t have the shutter speed dial in the way. You need one complete turn of the spring before fitting the advance lever down onto its spindle.

Replace the threaded trim and tighten down with a rubber bung. Do not apply too much pressure as you can shear the threaded part away from the cap quite easily..this is best done with a rubber bung rather than a lens spanner. Its too easy to end up shearing the threaded part off with a lens spanner.

Replace the shutter speed dial and shutter button and then…

Replace the trim/retainer. Tighten this down to not much more than finger tight.

Note the rewind capstan has a keyed shape and locate this to the top of the film spool spindle.

Do not allow the spindle to be pressed down into the camera so either grip it with some pliers or wrap some tape round it to stop it being pushed down.

Replace the JIS screw on top of the rewind capstan.

Now replace the Minolta name plate…

…replace the two screws either side of the name plate.

Give the camera a check to make sure all functions are operating correctly and pay attention to making sure all viewfinder LEDS are showing.

If you cracked any circuit tracks you may find the ‘P’ or ‘A’ indicators are missing.

Minolta X-700 35mm SLR

If all has gone well with your Minolta X-700 capacitor replacement you now have a fully working camera.

Treat yourself to your favourite beverage and get ready to get some great pictures.

You may want to treat your newly repaired camera to some new light seals so check out the guide HERE for light seal replacement on the X-700.

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The ‘X’ Factor  – Minolta X Series X-700, X-500 and X-300

Minolta X-500 X-300 X-700

The way we were


Before we discuss the Minolta X Series (X-700, X-500 and X-300 etc), let’s step back in time.

Back in the mid 1970s and early 1980s the 35mm SLR camera market was in turmoil. The big boys were busy forcing the smaller companies out and there was a rush of developments as each manufacturer tried to get the drop on the competition.

The smaller players just ran out of cash and gave up, some of them became cheap 3rd party suppliers for accessories, some became sub suppliers for the big boys and some, sadly, were relegated to a footnote in camera history.
Any avid reader of the photography magazines back then can doubtless remember a certain headiness as manufacturers seemed to be churning out an ever larger number of techno marvels. The smart phone market of the last few years would be similar for younger readers.

The drivers on the market were simple – get more 35mm SLRs sold – pronto! Get more sold, sell more cameras, get cameras sold NOW!  The biggest headache to getting more 35mm SLRs sold for manufacturers was the average camera owner/user lacked the interest/brainpower/willpower to learn photography – they just wanted to take some happy snaps on hols. Getting a picture of little Timmy in the paddling pool or cousin Sarah’s big day was what they wanted, not learning abstract things like depth of field or film reciprocity.  Getting the volumes up would mean (a) getting the camera to do some of the ‘thinking’ and (b) getting the price down to make it appealing enough for people to consider dumping their trusty Kodak Instamatic.

Between 1974 and 1981 there would be a rush of developments culminating in 1985 with the first practical and commercially successful auto-focus system in a 35mm SLR – the Minolta X-7000 Dynax.  In the stampede towards this there was a plethora of developments from the big 5 manufacturers as they duked it out to be last man standing. The holy grail back then was ‘Program’ mode. Getting the camera to do the tricky bit of setting the shutter speed and aperture.

From the mind of Minolta

Minolta as ever were very much up the front in terms developments.  Minolta had a history of being first in the pool. Their beautiful XE model was killed by the Olympus OM-1 which forced the entire industry to go for small form factors.
Minolta hit back (hard!) with the very beautiful XD7 which got the size down to OM-1 proportions and provided the first camera with AP, SP, Program and Manual modes. A masterpiece of design, but sadly the XD was too expensive and too sophisticated for most people. “Most people” included Minolta themselves who never mentioned the Program mode until the second revision! The XD was so sophisticated it seems even Minolta didn’t get it!

By the late 1970s Minoltas product range was eclectic – the venerable but now outdated SRTs (in three different flavours) , the all new budget end XG series brimming with plastic and techno and the swish and sophisticated XD priced so high people fainted or cried in the shop (it was about equivalent to about 2 months take home pay for the average Joe or Joanna!)

Minolta had a complete line up but, each of these cameras was entirely different in terms of production and their technology. What was needed was some rationalisation and some serious price snipping and Minolta clearly had a plan in mind – the goal would be a simplified line of cameras all using the same base but with differing levels of features. This would become the X-x00 Series (Minolta X Series).

Minolta XG-M and X-700 X-500
The last of the XG series – the XG-M the doorway to the Minolta X-700. You can see the family resemblance!

The humble XGs would provide the stepping stone to the X-x00 series and pioneered most of the manufacturing processes and construction techniques which would follow Canons approach with their AE-1. This basically meant all electronic control and plastic bodies! In 1981 Minolta launched the XG-M – the final iteration of the XG series and the last stepping stone towards the Minolta X Series. The SRT range was killed off and Minolta had their goal of a simplified line up in their reach.

The X-x00 Series were among the last manual focus 35mm SLRs but were built so well that they would trudge on for over 20 years becoming arguably the last man standing in the manual focus SLR market.

The Minolta X-700 – ‘X’ The Unknown Factor


Minolta had gotten it wrong for all the right reasons with their splendid XD series which supported Aperture Priority (AP), Shutter Priority (SP) and Program mode plus full manual and all packed into a body scarcely larger than the diminutive Olympus OM-1 and the XD is indeed a splendid beast.  One of the finest manual focus camera made but the problem was price. It was expensive – granted you were getting a high quality camera but the market was moving away from ‘the best’ to getting something in the shops that would be ‘good enough’ at a sharp price point. This would get some more kit sold and also save on Kleenex and smelling salts for Joe and Joanna when buying a camera.

Minolta XD and the X-700
The technically superior XD gently faded away as the X-700 became the most popular Minolta SLR ever. High quality was no match for low price in the camera wars of the late 1970s.

Enter the X-700 – Minoltas best ever selling camera.  The X-700 may have been a bit slow getting here but when it did it had a lot of features in the bag….leveraged off of the chassis of the XG-M the X-700 would look very similar but under the hood it had been hotted up with a huge bag of goodies courtesy of some fairly dense electronics.

Minolta X700 Under the hood
It’s complicated – Minolta shoehorned a lot of electronics into the X-700 but it’s basic mechanics are the same as the X-500 and X-300.

The goodies Minolta shoehorned into the X-700 body included;

  • Stepless electronic shutter for AP and Program mode plus manual speeds from 4 seconds to 1000th plus B.
  • Final check metering system just like the XD.
  • One of the best focus screens of any camera – better even than the XDs screen which was itself amazing.
  • Exposure lock function.
  • LED metering showing recommended speed (or camera selected speed if in Program or SP mode) but not actual speed set if in manual mode.
  • Aperture readout in the viewfinder.
  • Exposure compensation of up to 2 stops.
  • Film Safe Indicator which shows if film is transporting ok.
  • Touch sensitive on/off for the meter – putting your finger on the shutter release activates the meter. After 15 seconds of no activity the meter turns itself back off.
  • Full TTL flash operation- the first camera ever to have this!
  • Replaceable/Swappable focus screens – although this was touted as a feature and was possible Minolta never did push the optional screens which included a grid screen and a microprism centre dot. They are now VERY rare.
  • Motor drive compatible – Minolta did have a penchant for wrecking sales of their cameras by NOT having a motor drive capability – the X-700 finally got it right with a fully featured motor drive accessory.
Minolta X-700 European Camera of the Year
Minolta X-700 proudly showing its European Camera of the Year 1981 lens cap.

All these features made the camera attractive to the complete newbie and the advanced amateur and the Program mode made it possible for even complete beginners to get some decent shots. While Minolta pitched the X-700 as a professional camera, and manufactured a whole bag of accessories for it the camera was never really successful as a professional bit of kit and it was stuck firmly at the prosumer end of the market where it cut quite a dash.

The X-700 was so successful that it was awarded European Camera of the Year in 1981 and Minolta carried on bashing them out from 1981 to 1999, first in Japan, then in Malaysia and finally in China making it one of the last manual focus cameras in production – only its less expensive cousin the X-300 had a longer production run.

Camera Controls
The X-700s top panel – you can see the XG-M lineage. The big difference is the ‘P’ for Program.
Exposure Compensation and ASA dial
The X-700s Exposure Compensation and ASA control – again very much like an XG-M.
The XG-M Controls
The XG-M controls – you can see it only lacks the ‘P’ Program mode – otherwise identical to an X-700.
The XG-M Exposure compensation and ASA dial
The XG-M Exposure Compensation and ASA dial – identical to the X-700.

Now to get all the features in to the right price point Minolta had to make some compromises so you get a plastic body, horizontal cloth shutter as opposed to the Seiko metal bladed vertical shutter in the XD, lots of internal components made of plastic and the finesse of the XD is lacking BUT…. It’s still miles nicer to shoot with over many cameras of the period – perhaps even most. The body may be plastic but its quite tough and durable and it fits in the hands well with all of the controls well positioned.

The film advance is a bit more firm than the svelte XD and all of the controls have a more plastic feel lacking the poise of the XD’s excellent damping in its controls but it works, and works well.
As an aside here….for all the XDs superiority Minolta sold fewer XDs in the entire production run of XDs than they sold X-700s in the first two years of X-700 production.

Minolta most likely saw the X-700 as a place holder in the manual focus marketplace while they sneakily got on with producing the apocalyptic 7000 series which would very firmly push a cream pie into almost every other manufacturers face but time has shown what an excellent design the X-700 actually was.

Minolta X-700 with the MD f1.4 50mm lens and Motor Drive 1
The X-700 fully loaded with the Motor Drive 1, the MD 50mm f1.4 lens and viewfinder eye-cup.

The biggest upside to the X-700 today is its ability to use almost every Minolta Rokkor lens ever made, giving you access to a huge range of glass in a relatively modern body.  Admittedly some of the oldest glass won’t work so well in full Program mode and you need to be on your toes to remember to always have older lenses on their minimum aperture (largest F number) when shooting in Program (the camera wont warn you about setting the lens aperture with a non MD lens installed!) but the camera will work ok though its generally better to have the later MD lenses with it as its quite light – older lenses with their all metal constructions can make the camera feel nose heavy and awkward especially without a motor drive attached.

In Program mode I find the X-700 tends to favour speed over aperture a bit too much for my liking and mostly shoot in AP mode whenever possible. The XDs ‘secret’ program mode yields better results in my opinion. But by and large a good X-700 meters accurately and well and shoots reliably.

Minolta did provide alternate focus screens for the X-700. A cautionary tale here they are hellish to replace and best left alone unless you want to risk a scratched screen. The alternate screens which included a grid type screen are very rare indeed. On the upside if you have a damaged screen it odes at least offer the option of finding a standard screen and replacing it.

The Minolta Capacitor-itis


The X-700 does though have an Achilles heel – The cheap and nasty capacitors Minolta used late in its production.  Units with a serial number below 2000000 used expensive tantalum capacitors and these tend to be very reliable.  During the X-700s long production run the price of tantalum went through the roof and in the cut throat world of camera manufacturing of the 1980s Minolta swapped the expensive tantalum bead capacitors for inexpensive electrolytic capacitors to keep the price down.  Electrolytic capacitors have a rather limited life and the result is many X-700s now have defective capacitors – two in fact! There’s the easy one to get at in the base of the camera (shutter release capacitor)  and the hard one that’s underneath the top PCB under the cover (aperture control capacitor). 

 Shutter Release Capacitor
This is a tantalum capacitor version of the X-700 – the blue bead. If this is an electrolytic type they can fail.
Aperture Control Capacitor
The aperture control capacitor on the right. If this one is an electrolytic capacitor and it fails its tough to replace.

While these are not impossible to repair it needs a good low power soldering iron, patience and a steady hand.  We have a Minolta X-700 Capacitor Replacement Guide here.  The give away of a failing capacitor is when you press the shutter the LEDs in the viewfinder go out and the camera doesn’t fire.
Sometimes the camera will reset itself after a power off and back on again but the fault will return.

Now I said it’s the Achilles heel but the X-700 was built down to a price so they can also suffer other ills which will mimic a capacitor failure but are a good deal harder to fix.  These include shutter derails and faulty electromagnets for the shutter plus of course IC or circuit board failures though these are relatively rare. Like any old camera they can also suffer poor shutter performance due to lack of lubrication on their shutter rollers.

People whinge mightily about the capacitor-itis on the X series on camera forums but in truth compared to many camera issues that crop up on classic cameras its an easy-ish fix – just try fixing the issues that arise on the Pentax ME Super and you’ll quickly see that fixing a few capacitors is nothing much to moan about. From the Minolta X Series, the Minolta X-300 and Minolta X-500 also suffer from capacitor-itis.

The Unknown Factor of “X”

It’s hard to say what makes the X-700 so good – it has a very positive and smooth winder compared to most of its contemporaries, its shutter release is all electronic allowing a smooth pull off and its controls are well laid out with a good positive feel. Unlike some of its contemporaries it feels as if it was designed by people who used cameras and spent time getting its ergonomics right. Certainly its viewfinder is one of the very best thanks to the Accu-Matte focusing screen which is actually better than even the top line XD.

I always enjoy shooting my own pair of X-700s and they always deliver reliable results.  It’s a camera that’s equally at home in the hands of a beginner or the more advanced photographer.

Minolta X700 with standard MD 50mm f1.7 lens
Minolta X700 with standard MD 50mm f1.7 lens – a capable combination.


So there it is – the X-700 is a very capable, reasonable quality manual focus SLR with all the bits you need and nothing that you don’t.  It uses off the shelf SR44 batteries so its easy to power (unlike some other cameras of similar vintage) and generally very reliable – doubly so if it’s an early one with tantalum capacitors or has had its ageing electrolytic capacitors replaced. The standard lens when they were in production was the late model Minolta MD 50mm f1.7 lens which is very sharp and gives excellent contrast.

The Minolta X-500 – Secret Ingredient ‘X’

In 1983 Minolta released the X-500 as a lower cost alternative to the X-700.  This replaced the X-700s running mate the XG-M, the last of the XG series and until the Minolta X-500 arrived the lower cost alternative to the X-700.

The X-500 is broadly comparable to an XG-M and the X-700 but it has a few tricks up its sleeve which make it quite different for the more expert photographer. The most obvious difference on the surface when compared with the X-700 is the Program mode being deleted and no exposure compensation dial.  I seldom use exposure compensation myself as I mostly shoot in manual and just tweak the aperture or speeds.

It wasn’t just about deleting stuff though.  Minolta made some key changes to the Minolta X-500 probably based on experience gained with the X-700 and these form the secret ingredients for the Minolta X-500.

Minolta X-500 35mm SLR
Minolta X-500 – Capable and preferred by the more advanced photographer.
Minolta X-500 film speed dial
Minolta X-500 – the exposure compensation is deleted. But film speed range is increased over the X-700.
Minolta X-500 Shutter speed
Minolta X-500 -The shutter speed and film advance eerily resemble the XG-M just like the X-700.

The Minolta X-500 had a more advanced meter display – the X-700 only shows the speed selected by the camera or the recommended speed if in manual mode. The Minolta X-500 shows the recommended speed and what’s actually set. I am so ancient I always look at the shutter speed dial anyway but some people prefer a bit of confirmation through the viewfinder.

There is also a minor change where the Minolta X-500 will meter accurately whether or not depth of field preview (DoF)  is engaged. On an X-700 if you use the DoF preview you are stopping down the lens and reducing the light to the meter so the meter will change – the X-500 provides ‘true’ metering irrespective of whether the DoF preview is in use.

The secret ingredient ‘X’ – The biggest change which doesn’t show externally was the flash synch speed. On the X-700 if a dedicated flash is installed the camera will automatically set the shutter to 1/60th and you cant override this (there is a mod that can be carried out to the X-700 electronics but its a scary bit of work).

On the X-500 the camera can adjust the shutter speed for slow flash synch to illuminate only a background to act as a fill flash. This give you slow ‘X’ synch capability. In effect you can set the shutter speed at any speed you wish – useful for fill flash. In truth its a bit of faff to get this running as the camera will override settings once the flash charges so you have to be quick with the metering and lock the value into the exposure lock/memory. Its incredibly inelegant and awkward and frankly easier to just run in manual mode with an auto-flash.

Also added to the X-500 was an expanded ISO range of 12-3200 ASA compared to. The 25-1600 on the X-700.

Because of the fill flash capability, wider ISO range and the more informative metering many experienced photographers tended to prefer the X-500. The market didn’t agree back when it was in production and by 1985 it was withdrawn after only two years production – one of the shortest production runs of any 35mm SLR!
The fact is the X-500 was always caught between two stools – its more expensive sister the X-700 and the  low cost X-300. The middle ground is always a dicey market to play in.

Like the X-700 the X-500 can accept any of the literally hundreds of Minolta Rokkor lenses and uses completely standard and readily available  SR44 batteries.

On the downsides just like the X-700 the X-500 can suffer capacitor failure – unlike the X-700 it’s a lot easier to fix as there’s only one to worry about in the base. By the time the X-500 hit the production line the tantalum capacitors were gone so you will most likely only ever see these with the electrolytic capacitors although some early ones do have a tantalum capacitor.

Minolta X-500 Capacitor
The pesky 220uF 4V Electrolytic (ALEC) capacitor in the base of the X-500 is its weak spot. It’s the thing that looks like a soda tin on the left. CAUTION: The flexible circuit board is VERY sensitive and will melt very easily.

Overall all I have used the X-500 and it’s a sweet camera, for myself there’s not much to choose between it and its more popular siblings but the X-500 is harder to come by.  There were so few of them made by comparison to the X-700 and the X-300 (only an estimated 350,000 produced compared to approximately 2 million X-700s). In quite some time of looking I have only ever had four X-500s come into my possession. Certainly a sleeper camera because modern film shooters still tend to be smitten with the X-700 and overlook the X-500.  It’s still suffering middle child syndrome decades after it was made as modern film camera fans tend to overlook it – seduced by the charms of its sexier big sister.

Minolta X-500 black finish
One of the few X-500s we have seen. This one was in a terrible shape but was restored and sold some time ago – custom leatherette and a complete rebuild.

Like the X-700 the standard lens was usually the Minolta MD 50mm f1.7 but I suspect back in its day most people would have opted for the upgrade to the MD 50mm f1.4 more befitting its advanced amateur/semi-pro status.
Unlike the X-700 which was only available in black outside of Japan the X-500 was supplied in silver as standard and black as a cost option.  The black version has a ghastly plastic film advance lever rather than the metal type used on the silver model.

The Minolta X-300 – ‘X’ Marks the Spot

To add to the Minolta X Series and hoover up sales at the lower end of the market Minolta released the X-300 the same year as the X-500 in 1983 – the X-300 was around 40% less expensive than an X-700 and 20% less expensive than the X-500. 

The X-300 was definitely the budget end of the Minolta X Series and Minolta slashed down the features from the X-500 to get the price low to boost sales by enticing the mums and dads.

Minolta X-300
Minolta X-300 – its happiness on the cheap. Its low price belies it’s capabilities.

Gone from the other X series are…

  • The depth of field preview – I don’t mind as I seldom use it.
  • TTL flash  – I can get by without.
  • Aperture read out in viewfinder – I am old school and tend to look at the lens anyway.
  • Slow speed warning tone – some people may think that a blessing!
  • Removable back – No data-back capability – no loss. Most of them can’t date past 2000 anyway!
Minolta X-300 Film Speed identical to X-500
The film speed ring is identical to the Minolta X-500 with expanded range from 12-3200 ASA.
Minolta X-300 35mm SLR Controls
The Minolta X-300 featured a simplified top deck to speed assembly and get the price down.

All other features are the same as the Minolta X-500 so you have a camera with AP mode and manual speeds only and a reduced top plate with simpler layout to get the costs down for an entry level camera.  Back in its day they were sold as a kind of sophisticated point and shoot. Most users were going to lock the lens into its Auto Setting, put the camera on Auto and blaze away seeking a Kodak moment so it was perfectly designed for its intended customer base.

Manufactured in massive quantities (over 2 million reputedly sold in its first 10 years of production) , early models were made in Japan before production off shored to Malaysia and finally China. Late in its life the Minolta X-300 was given a makeover (more plastic) in the form of a more 1980s techno look and rebranded as the X-300S.

After Minolta ceased production in 2005 the camera was licensed to other manufacturers and often appears with Centon, Vivitar, Carena or Seagull badges. Some of these brands would be banging out Minolta X-300 / X-300S models until 2012 making it a contender for the longest production run of ANY 35mm SLR camera far outpacing it’s more illustrious ancestors and arguably holds the title of last manual focus camera in production.

All this chopping down of features may sound rather grim but in fact the Minolta X-300 is actually quite nice to shoot with. It retains all of the essential features of the other X series cameras. It can make use of a vast range of lenses and accessories like its more expensive sisters and even though later ones clearly started hacking into the quality (especially the third party ones like Centon) they can perform extremely well with quality lenses.  The standard camera shipped with the Minolta 50mm f2 which is a very sharp lens. Most that I have come across have had a 50mm f1.7 which is clearly the original lens which may indicate it was up-sold by the dealer when new. When new the standard finish was silver with black as a cost option.

Like the other X series the Minolta X-300 can suffer a blown capacitor as they were all made with electrolytic type capacitors. The headache with the Minolta X-300 is although there is only the one capacitor in the base its soldered on to a very fragile and heat sensitive flex board.  It needs a very low powered soldering iron and a very deft touch or else the flex board is toasted and that’s the end of the camera.

X-300 Shutter release capacitor
The cursed shutter release capacitor – these can be devilish to repair.
Badly repaired X-300 release capacitor
Mr Bodge-It has been at work. The flexible circuit board has been toasted. These are VERY fragile!

I have to confess when I shot the first Minolta X-300 to a sneaking snobbism towards it – it’s such a beginner level camera and I am such a consummate professional (yadda yadda) BUT I have shot quite a few of them and they have definitely grown on me. They are rather sweet and fuss free. I would put these down as ‘buried treasure’ – overlooked by most because of its ‘poor boy’ status but it’s a camera which can play way out of its league. That shouldn’t be surprising as its guts are basically an X-700 minus the frills.

Gatwick Air Museum taken with a Minolta X-300
The X-300 can certainly get the shots – this is an abandoned Hawker Hunter at Gatwick Aviation Museum. Taken with a 28mm Minolta MD3 and expired Fuji 400 scanned to black and white.

Overall a nice camera to shoot with – it lacks features I would prefer to have but I could easily live with it if it were the only camera I owned.  My only gripe with it is I hate the shutter speed control which feels fiddly and I don’t like the fact it has no stops at either end. It just rotates all the way round endlessly so its tough to judge by clicks as to whats going on which paired with the rather tiny markings for speed makes its a bit of a chore with my aged eyes.

As ever the real magic is in the lens rather than the camera and as the humble X-300 can make use of all of the superb glass made by Minolta it really is one of the last bargains left on the shelf and something of a buried treasure – ‘X’ really does mark the spot for these. Fully serviced units with a lens are readily available for around £80 making them a real bargain for the beginner to film.

Minolta X Series Accessories

Minolta created a whole range of accessories for the Minolta X Series and of course almost any Minolta SR/MC/MD lens will fit and work with the camera.

My own picks for accessories would be a bit more limited.

Minolta bought out three flash guns to integrate with the X-700s TTL flash. Of these easily the best is the 360-PX. It’s simply superb with bounce flash capability and every feature you could possible expect from a flash gun. It’s also very powerful.

On the downside its huge, and when loaded with batteries very heavy. I normally use a separate flash grip for it for fear of it snapping the hot shoe off the camera!

The Motor Drive 1 is a useful accessory as it provides an additional shutter release button for portrait/vertical shots but unlike some motor drives you do need it powered to be able to use the release buttons on the motor drive. Some drives will allow you to trip the shutter even with no batteries installed in the drive. It does though make the camera more grippy which is useful with longer lenses or when a flash is being used.

A word of caution. The X series used very many plastic drive gears inside and motor drives can place a great strain on the cameras internals so it usually best to avoid drives on older cameras.

Minolta X-700 with 1.4 lens, motor drive and flash
One of our own X-700s fully dressed with a 1.4 lens, motor drive and the 360PX flash.

Summing up

If there was ever a secret formula to success with selling cameras then Minolta certainly hit it with the Minolta X Series with literally millions produced and sold (Probably close to 6 million from Minolta alone!).

Minolta had pioneered many developments in film cameras and it seems fitting their last manual focus camera would be one of the last manual focus camera of any manufacturers to be in production.

The X-x00 Series  may well have been placeholders while Minolta got on with the real work of producing the first commercially successful auto focus system but the X series stayed in production a very long time and were amongst the last film cameras still being turned out. Many of these are still going strong with a whole new generation of film users which just goes to show if ever there was a magic formula, a secret ingredient ‘X’, Minolta may well have found it with the X-700, X-500 and the X-300.